12 Tips for Crocheting Amigurumi
Discover top tips to help you crochet amigurumi you love.
Crocheting amigurumi is really what made me fall in love with crochet. There are so many adorable crochet patterns for stuffed animals, teddy bears and dolls.
After a few years of being absolutely obsessed with crochet, I thought it might be helpful to share some of my top tips for making amigurumi. Most of these tips stem from lessons I’ve learned and mistakes I’ve made when crocheting amigurumi.
I’m still not the fountain of all knowledge when it comes to crochet (I don’t think anyone ever is), but I did want to share with you what I’ve learned in the hope it helps you too.
All in all, if you're keen to learn more about crocheting amigurumi and would like to improve your amigurumi making skills, you’re in the right place!
I hope these tips help you crochet amigurumi that you love.
Tip 1: Use a smaller crochet hook
My first tip, and probably the most important, is to use a crochet hook that's smaller than your yarn recommends. This also means that you may need to use a different hook size than what the crochet pattern you’re using recommends.
The reason you should use a smaller crochet hook when making amigurumi is simply to make your stitches tighter. This will ensure that the stuffing can't be seen (or escape through) your crochet stitches. It also creates a much neater finish.
If you use a different yarn to what the crochet pattern recommends, this will also impact the hook size you use, even if you’re using the same weight of yarn (e.g. DK, Worsted Weight etc). If the yarn you’re using is a different brand to the yarn recommended in the pattern, the strands of yarn can be a slightly different size (even if they’re in the same yarn weight category). This is something I’ve learned the hard way!
As such, the best way to ensure you're using the right size hook for making amigurumi is to check your yarn label. Your yarn label should specify the size of crochet hook recommended and this will often be a range (for example 4mm - 5mm). Once you've spotted the recommended hook size, simply go down at least one hook size from the smaller recommendation on the yarn label. For example, in this case I would go down to a 3.5mm crochet hook.
It's important to note that this does vary depending how tight your tension is when you crochet. But as a general rule of thumb, if you go down at least one hook size, your amigurumi should look neat, your crochet stitches will be tighter, and no stuffing will be seen.
Tip 2: Learn how to make a magic circle
While it might be tempting to skip making a magic circle and opt for the chain 2 approach, a magic circle can really help you with making amigurumi. It’s also a lot easier than it looks once you get the hang of it.
Magic circles (also known as Magic Loops) will help make the ends of your projects (e.g. the tips of arms, legs, bodies and heads etc) look a lot neater and more consistent throughout your work. It will also reduce the chances of your stuffing appearing out through these starting crochet stitches.
Tip 3: Secure your magic circle after you start crocheting
When I first starting crocheting amigurumi I didn't realise that the start of your magic circle needs to be secured.
If your magic circle tail is not secured properly into your stitches, the magic circle will likely start to come apart over a period of time. I only know this because it's happened to me!
So if you'd like your amigurumi to stand the test of time and last as long as possible, I highly recommend always securing your magic circles.
To do this, simply thread a needle with the starting yarn tail of your magic circle and run it through the wrong side of your round 1 stitches in a clockwise direction. Once you're back to where you started, turn to go back through your stitches in an anti-clockwise direction. Just remember that when going back the other way, you’ll need to skip one stitch first so your original stitches don't come undone.
Once you've done this twice, pull the yarn tail tight to secure. Then you can simply snip the yarn tail of your magic circle a little closer to your work so it doesn't get in the way when you're crocheting.
This will not only keep those pesky yarn tails out of your way, but will ensure the magic circles are secured and your amigurumi is less likely to come apart at a later date.
Tip 4: Identify the right side and the wrong side of your amigurumi stitches
When working in rounds to crochet amigurumi, there is a right side and a wrong side of your work.
The right side should be the side that people see. The wrong side should be on the inside of your amigurumi pieces and should not be seen by anyone but you (when you’re crocheting). The wrong side is the side of your amigurumi that your stuffing will be touching.
Example of right side and wrong side of crochet when working in rounds. This is shown by the half sphere in this photo only. These photos are some assembly photos from Kira the Koala’s crochet pattern. The outer parts in this photo (not the half sphere) are worked back and forth in rows, so are not part of the example.
An easy way to remember which side is which, is to remember that the side of the stitch that is closest to you when you crochet (e.g. the side that you put your crochet hook into) is the right side.
If you'd like your amigurumi to look as good as possible, always ensure the right side of your work is facing outwards for people to see. Unless of course the crochet pattern you're using states otherwise.
While this sounds pretty straightforward, sometimes when crocheting in rounds (in particular if there are a small number of stitches) it can be tricky to get the 'right side' of your crochet piece facing outwards.
To make this a little easier, after crocheting the first round within your magic circle add your first stitch of round 2. At this stage, simply use the end of your crochet hook or your finger to push the middle of the magic circle in the direction that it should be facing (e.g. with the right side facing outwards). Continue doing this after each stitch in round two until the crochet piece is staying in place with the right side facing outwards and the wrong side facing inwards. This technique will hopefully save you the headache of trying to turn your work inside out at a later stage (which can be very frustrating!).
Tip 5: Count your crochet stitches and rows
Counting your stitches and rows in crochet is vital to getting your amigurumi looking how they should.
To help with the process, I highly recommend using a stitch marker of some kind. It doesn’t have to be a conventional stitch marker. It could be a paperclip, hair pin, or even a piece of different coloured yarn. Just something that allows you to make the first stitch in each of your rounds.
Whichever type of stitch marker you use, insert it into the starting stitch of each round of your amigurumi piece. Once you reach the end of the round (e.g. you reach the stitch marker), go back and count the stitches you’ve crocheted in that round to confirm that you have the same amount as the total stitch count in the crochet pattern.
This may sound like a huge pain, but it does get better with practice, I promise!
While you need to count the stitches in each of your rounds, you also need to keep track of the rounds you’ve crocheted.
This means that when you stop crocheting, you can come back and pick up where you left off easily. It also helps you keep track when a crochet pattern says to complete the same combination of stitches for multiple rounds, one after the other. Plus, you’re less likely to accidently miss a round.
Now, there are plenty of ways to keep track of your rows.
I personally find an old fashioned paper and pen method to be the most effective for me. I write each row number down for each amigurumi piece before I start crocheting. Then I simply cross each round off once it’s completed.
You can of course also invest in a row counter (I have one, but don’t use it as much as my paper and pen!). Alternatively, you can download an app like Row Counter, iKnitting Lite, Stitchy Stitch Counter etc. You can find quite a helpful list of crochet counting apps available here.
The most important thing is to just keep track of both your stitches and rounds. This will ensure stitches and rounds aren’t accidentally missed while you crochet, and your amigurumi will turn out looking how they were designed to look.
Tip 6: Take note of increases and decreases
Increases and decreases are often used in amigurumi to create certain 3D shapes. If your increases and decreases are in the wrong place and you don’t follow the crochet pattern exactly, the shape of your work may not turn out looking how it should.
A perfect example of this is my Beaming Banana crochet pattern where increases and decreases have been used to create the curve of the banana. If the increases and decreases were crocheted in different places, the banana wouldn’t curve how it should.
So long story short, the placement of your increases and decreases will (depending on the placement) change the 3D shape you’re trying to crochet.
Tip 7: Use an invisible decrease
The invisible decrease method honestly made such a huge change to how my amigurumi turned out, I couldn’t recommend using this method more. So here’s a quick run-down of how to crochet an invisible decrease.
Instead of inserting your crochet hook all the way through two stitches twice, insert your crochet hook through the front loop only of the two stitches you would like to join together. Then complete your stitch as per normal.
By using the invisible decrease method, your amigurumi will look more consistent and your decreases will be less visible.
Tip 8: Stuff your amigurumi just enough
Stuffing your amigurumi can be a tough one to get right! When I first started crocheting amigurumi, I researched how much stuffing I should use. Most of the online resources I looked at all told me to stuff my amigurumi more than you thought you needed.
While it does take more stuffing than you initially think to stuff an amigurumi, I think this advice also leads a lot of crocheters to over-stuffing their amigurumi. I’ve done it, I’ve been there!
Unfortunately, if you over-stuff your amigurumi, this will stretch your stitches and you’ll be able to see the stuffing of your amigurumi. Not ideal.
Conversely, if you don’t stuff your amigurumi enough, you will often notice that the shape of the amigurumi piece will pucker in places and won’t look how it should.
It is quite a challenging balance to get right, especially if you’re brand new to crocheting amigurumi. My advice is to stuff your amigurumi piece as much as you can, but as soon as you notice your crochet stitches stretching… start removing little bits of stuffing, one bit at a time. The aim is to stuff your amigurumi piece full enough so it holds its shape, but not so much that your stitches stretch.
Tip 9: Change colour just before the new colour is needed
If colour changes are required in the amigurumi pattern you’re using, this is one for you! When you change colour while making amigurumi, you really want the first stitch of the new colour to all be in that same colour.
If you add the new colour to the stitch stated in the pattern, this stitch will be made partly from the previous colour and the new colour of yarn.
To stop this from happening, simply add the new colour of yarn just before you need it. This means adding the new colour to the final yarn over (yo) of the stitch before the colour-change is stated in the crochet pattern.
For example, in my crochet pattern Pip the Penguin, the first colour change line of Pip’s head is stated below.
R9: 16 sc, ccC 2 sc, ccA 6 sc, ccC 2 sc, ccA 16 sc (42)
The cc# in the line above simply indicates when a new colour is used. For example:
ccC = colour change to yarn colour C
ccA = colour change to yarn colour A
So for the first colour change in this pattern, you would simply add the new colour in your final yarn over of the 16th sc (right before the new colour is needed). Then you would crochet 1 stitch as normal with the new colour. Then in preparation for the next colour change, in the 2nd single crochet stitch you would swap back to the other colour in your final yarn over of this stitch. This process would be then be repeated for all colour changes throughout the pattern.
This photo is the second part of the example above, where the pattern calls for a colour change back to A (Blue). Simply add the new colour of yarn in your final YO of the sc before the new colour is needed.
Why is this one of my top amigurumi tips? Because I didn’t know about this for quite sometime after learning how to make amigurumi and it really does make a big difference when you’re working with colour changes.
Following this approach will ensure your colour change lines are much more prominent and there are no half-and-half coloured stitches throughout your amigurumi.
Tip 10: Use pins before sewing amigurumi parts together
Something else I learned fairly early on when crocheting amigurumi was that pins help a lot when it comes to sewing your amigurumi parts together.
When I first started crocheting, I very much so ‘winged it’ when it came to amigurumi part placement. I mean, I followed the pattern, but just went straight in with a sewing needle and started sewing my amigurumi parts together without a second thought.
While this wasn’t always a complete disaster, I now use pins religiously.
Before picking up a needle to sew amigurumi parts together, I pin each part in place before sewing it on. This helps me visualise what the amigurumi will look like once sewn together and I can move things around if I feel like they don’t look quite right.
Once pinned and happy with the placement, I then sew the amigurumi parts together, taking pins out as I sew. This ensures that placement is more accurate and also gives me the opportunity to move parts around if they don’t look quite right.
As a side note, I usually pin one amigurumi part at a time unless it’s a set (e.g. arms and legs). Otherwise your pins may not hold all the parts together as you sew.
Tip 11: Use a bent tip tapestry needle
Speaking of sewing amigurumi parts together, a bent tip tapestry needle has honestly been a lifesaver for me.
Bent tip tapestry needle
This was first recommended to me in one of my crochet community interviews with crochet designer, Ellie Richards from Foxy Crochet.
After hearing Ellie’s recommendation I decided to invest in some bent tip tapestry needles and they have honestly made sewing amigurumi parts together so much easier. If you’re looking to save time and make sewing simpler, I couldn’t recommend them more.
Tip 12: Leave any embroidery to the very end
This is really a personal preference, but leaving all embroidery details to the end has really helped me.
There are some patterns that suggest embroidering details while you crochet. For example, embroidering facial features before you stuff the head.
While embroidery is a little more annoying when your pieces are stuffed, I’ve found that leaving this step to last helps to ensure the placement looks as best as it can.
For example, in the past there were occasions where I embroidered a face on an amigurumi before it had been sewn together. After sewing the parts together however, the embroidered detail moved slightly and the face was not central to the body. In other words, it didn’t look quite right!
So now, to avoid anything like this happening again, I always leave any embroidery details right to the end. I also use pins to map out embroidery placement first too! This basically ensures that my valuable crocheting time isn’t halted due to embroidery. I can just crack on and crochet, then embroider at the end. Plus, it’s more likely to look how it should.
I hope these crochet tips help you make amigurumi you love!
Just as a side note and a reminder, these tips are solely based on my own personal experience of crocheting amigurumi. There is no right and wrong, and some of these tips may not suit you. It is really down to personal preference.
Either way, I hope this post has helped you in some way. Let me know what you think in the comments below, I’d love to hear from you! Oh, and do you have any extra tips you’d add to the list? Let me know if so!
Until next time, happy crocheting,
Cilla x
